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**  This is my blog page about correct doggie diet concepts.  (yes, diet is a concept because every dog is an individual and can be tailor made) First, my concept for feeding any animal species is try to offer as close as possible to what nature dictates it would eat in the wild.  Imagine, sometimes God gets it right.   Be aware most of the wrong information you will hear about dog diets are articles written by the marketing teams of dog food companies, vets who do not raise animals, and animal rights people who know nothing of animals. Or someone wanting to sell you something, or wanting others to hear their thoughts regardless of their education or experience on the subject.  Anytime you read something about a dog's diet, or any subject... consider your source.  And always ask yourself, Does that make sense?  If they do not raise dogs/animals, or have something to gain from the information they give you, consider it a less viable source.   My father always said...  don't believe anything you hear, and only half of what you see.  Yes he was a redneck American Indian, but there is a lot of truth to that saying.   
  * My motivation of educating you is to see that my puppies have a correct diet throughout their entire lives.  Reading the dry ingredient list is very intimidating isn't it?  Rest easy, a dog's diet isn't rocket science, and is something that you dont have to spend years of training to learn.  Those ingredients are a long drawn out way to copy nutrients that is already in their natural diet... meat.  Hopefully after reading this, you will gain the confidence to feed your dog a healthier diet and be free of the incorrect political correctness of the dry dog food companies.

     *** Dont want to make it yourself?  Try "Nature's Variety" brand dog foods from the shelf and freezer.

 I KNOW THIS IS WORDY, BUT MIGHT BE WORTH YOUR TIME... The main concept in choosing a diet for your dog is to ignore what have been taught by dog food manufacturers and think of what he would eat in the wild with no human intervention.  There are so many ingredients that makes you feel it is what is necessary for dogs. Reality is that 95% of what is in dog food dry kibble is either filler or is necessary to hold the ingredients together after cooking. Common sense would tell you they were designed to be scavengers, look at what wild dogs do.  They aren't going to eat a cooked dry kibble, they are going to eat RAW.   How is it that our domesticated dog needs holistic and gourmet foods to survive... they don't.  They need only one simple ingredient (MEAT) and the rest is FILLER.  If your dog is healthy, you can feed him just about anything and he will be fine, but meat is all he needs with a few veriences. Some dogs may have more sensitive digestion systems, and need a limited ingredient diet, but they all need the same thing, you simply find the meat that agrees with your particular dog.  To make it simple for you, this is the easiest list of ingredients in order of importance... Muscle Meat, Organ Meat, bone meal, water.  Yep, that was a period at the end.  Everything else is a variety of random nutrients or "filler".  Veggies and fruits will offer some nutrients to sustain them until their next meat meal.  But they do not process the nutrients of beans, fruits, veggies and dairy like humans do.  They do like a variety in their diet just like we do and will enjoy many of the foods you do. But they are not what they were designed to eat.                   NOTE:  Avoid Vegan doggie diets that are created by uneducated Vegans, who by the way may not have correct operating brain function due to the lack of meat protein themselves.  Dont send me hate mail, that is my opinion and I am entitled to my opinion.  The difference in a human choosing a vegan diet, and a dog who is forced to be vegan is that a human requires only 20% meat protein to be healthy.  A dog requires 80% or more to be healthy.  They cant eat enough beans to make up the difference, their bodies do not absorb bean protein like ours will...   
     **  Vegan, know that your dog is not a vegan creature.  Please understand his needs and know that your diet is considered cruelty/ abusive to dogs.   He will not process bean protein like you do...give him meat, or give him up!Get a bird or mini pig. Since your dog was designed to catch rodents or small creatures, they can also handle scavenging any uneaten carcass they can find including the bone and hide. When their favorite prey is in short supply, their system is designed to handle temporary fillers such as water creatures, foul, eggs, bugs and some plant material.  Though it is more difficult to digest plants, their bodies can use a small portion to tide them over until their next preferred meal. Cooked fillers/veggies makes it more digestible, but still reduce beneficial nutrients your dog needs as well as the moisture content.  Leaving them raw and grinding them into a nice liquid shake, meatloaf, or pate' will do nicely.    The moisture content and essential oils in raw meat are very important. If you cant handle feeding meat as your dog's primary diet, it is socially acceptable to feed your dog dry kibble as a staple diet.  But buy doggie insurance, you will need it somewhere down the road for cancer and organ failures. Not to mention digestive upset and allergies. Canine system is similar to yours, but not exactly like ours. Its food break down enzymes are in their stomachs, rather than in their mouth like ours. He will gobble his food as a natural eating response. This is mainly because they are competing in the wild and need to gobble down as much as possible then move on quickly.   All store bought dog foods are not created equally... I know that processed dog foods are very convenient in today's society, but are made for convenience not always for correctness.  Trading convenience for a diet that is far from complete.  Wonder why the life span of a dog these days is much less than in the past, up to 40% less.  Or that there are more common illnesses and cancers than in the past?  In order for a manufacturer to create a product that will stay edible and have a shelf life, it contains added chemicals for preserving.  Then cheap fillers to add a profit margin.  Now having to add hormones and antibiotics to keep their bodies from developing illnesses from the unnecessary fillers and chemicals.  Not to mention that it is cooked, removing even more moisture and nutrients from the original ingredients, then needing to add man made nutrients to make it appealing to you.  Along side of that they are marketing this product to humans, meaning it should look attractive to you by adding color.  OMG!  Wonder why all the cancer problems and short life span?

Dog foods are so expensive nowadays that it seems more cost effective to just add him to your grocery list as a family member while shopping at the grocery store. Keeping in mind his primary diet is meat and bone, everything else is just filler.   Find a local rabbit rancher, or go to Tyson chicken on retail day to purchase organ meat and chicken necks... they freeze wonderfully in your dog's portions. The good thing about your dog is his system was designed to be able to eat things that were not fresh.  Foods maybe a little older than you would eat, so mark down items at your grocery are a good economic choice, be sure to label them DOG before putting them in the freezer. Wash your hands after handling, just as you would after handling meat to cook for yourself. To help build your confidence in feeding your dog a healthy diet, remember, in the wild he will not always get to eat a meal every day.  So no matter what you give him, he will be the better for it. Mixing raw and dry is acceptable as long as your dog's system is okay with it. Each dog is different, so only you will know the answer to that.

There are increasingly more raw dog food diets on the market to choose from.  Check them out at your pet store or online until you gain the confidence to just purchase what he needs from the grocer. Again it isnt rocket science, just start feeding your dog natural ingredients... then alter his portion due to activity levels and variety meat options, and according to his digestion and his likes and dislikes.   Remember that he will not eat NEAR as much in portion as he would with dry dog food because of the lack of fillers


                                                                Reasons and Risks of Spay and Neuter

Let me say that the choice for this should be up to the individual, period.   I feel less is most times more and wouldnt bother to neuter without a medical reason to do so.  Those body parts are there for a purpose, and you could be giving your dog more risks than your preventing.  An intact dog has no more chance of getting cancer than you or your husband.  The main reason they stand a chance of getting testicular or uterine cancer is... yep you guessed is, because they have testicles and uterus.   It would be the same for you, if they try to convince you that you need a hysterectomy because you have a chance of getting uterine cancer, but chance is mainly there because you have a uterus.  Im sure family history can play a roll in contracting, but so can environment and the foods you eat.
 Not one of us is guaranteed a certain amount of time, or what type ending we get.  But my theory is that less is more.  Without this these necessary hormones, they still have a chance of developing different cancers and joint problems because his body was made to use what progesterone or testosterone produces. Not to mention the problems caused by the weight gain.  In my opinion, you have more risks if you do, than if you dont.    
Do not take just your vets opinion, check these risks out for yourself, and get opinions from other sources. 

 Again, this is my opinion.  I feel that most of the debates are not really necessary.  Reason being we are all individuals, and our pets are all individuals that require an individual and informed decision.  No choice is wrong or right, only what you feel is right for you.  Others have the same right, so dont try to instill your choice on someone else.  Its as insulting as trying to persuade someone to give up their current religion to follow yours.  Follow your gut feeling and you will be right every time.

 Try this article.  It is one that is easy for anyone to read and understand, and they give credit to the reference article.

  Pros:   Fixes unwanted bad behavioral issues, prevents unwanted reproduction, reduces risk of uterine or testicular cancer.

  Cons:  Causes weight gain and issues associated with it such as heart condition; prevents lethargy and lack of energy, depression, and obesity associated with neutering; reduces risk of other cancers and joint issues due to lack of necessary hormones.  As well as diabetes due to improper diet  and weight gain.  I am always willing to talk to you about any of these topics, feel free to call me anytime even if you have not adopted from us. 

My regimen is...
 FOR PUPPIESwe free feed (leave a full bowl available at all times) a staple of NutriScourse Puppy Starter Plus dry kibble because that is what most people want to feed their dogs.  If we start them on raw, and the new owner dosent feed raw, they are not ever going to be happy.  We do however start them on real baby food items such as ripe banana and vanilla yogurt.  We offer them a "snack" once a day after weaning with their NuVet vitamin sprinkled in. This allows me to give him a vitamin crushed or medication in the future.  Your puppy will appreciate a real food snack at least once a day.  You may continue adding new ingredients to their diet, or just make the jump into raw food for puppies.  Then alter it to suit your individual dog.   I make my own batch, and freeze in daily portions.  
Puppies typically 3-4 times per day. Call me to discuss your particular puppy needs.  Typically an ice cube or two is about the daily portion for a puppy.

 OUR ADULTS are offered free choice grain free dry kibble, and is primarily there for mental stability due to there being multiple dogs in our home.  The concept being if a never ending food bowl is available to them, they will lose interest in guarding their food, and will not fight or over eat. It works.  Also is there for anyone who needs an extra snack in between meals. You may not need to do this, but it seems to work even with one dog in the home. It is also used for convenience when I need to be gone more than 24 hours. 
 Then their main meals consist of a variety of raw/real foods. Standard portioning suggests 2-3% of your dog's body weight per day, average 1/4-1/2 cup for an adult schnauzer.  That is modified to suit your individual dog's activity levels and at different stages of life. Your dog may want to eat twice a day, follow his desires and everyone is happy.

 *  Typical food suggestions....
A raw dog food diet typically consists of: > 80 % Muscle meat, on the bone or ground fat and bones included if you can find it that way.
>5-10% Bone meal, or ground and sprinkled in the food, large raw bones to chew on as a treat are good as well.
> 10% Organ meats such as livers, hearts and kidneys
> Raw/ scrambled eggs as desired
> Preferred Veggies such as sweet potato, broccoli, spinach, squash and carrots. Apples or pumpkin, dairy, such as yogurt or cottage cheese. NO LETTUCE

> Fish, canned or fresh

* These ingredients can vary with store availability, or your dog's preference and tastes. Online shopping and your grocery store gives you endless options.

* including ground flax seed to keep progesterone levels up, and adds a level of omegas.

  You will tweak your dogs diet as you see something does or dosent agree with him.  Let him be an individual.


     >>  Grooming dose'nt always mean trimming hair.  You can still take your dog in for regular trimming and bathing, and practice a few at home basics.  Routine brushing and inspection of your dog is key to grooming and good health.
 * Just a little light brushing/combing every day or so gets them used to the grooming routine. They also enjoy the attention.  I use a paddle brush with safety nobs on the ends.  And use a metal comb to finish getting any smaller debri or mats. Brush at least once a week to prevent mats.  And it can be done leisurely on the comfort of your sofa.
  * Ear cleaning is probably the most important groom for the schnauzer.  Dogs that have non shedding hair growing inside the ear canal need to be kept clean.  Pull the hair from inside the base of the ear with your fingernails, or hemostats once a month. never go farther into the canal than you can see.  Pour an ear cleaning solution (from your vet or pet store, I use home made  50/50 vinegar and witch hazel) into the ear canal and massage the base of the ear for a moment.  Do this outside and allow the puppy to shake the ears free of excess cleaner. Use a soft cloth, tissue or q-tip to swab inside the ear.  Takes about 1 minute to do and will prevent debre build up or ear infection.

* Nails grow very fast when they are young, but will slow as they mature. I place them on my lap on their back, and calm him with a belly rub.  Then take each paw and snip the tips just after the curve of the nail. Trim only the tips of the nails to dull them.  The trick is, dont try to cut too short, you only want to remove the sharp tips.  Once you have quicked them, they will not be as receptive to trimming in the future.  File smooth with an emery board if desired.  They will learn to be submissive if you are patient, they will used to it and learn to trust you.  You can have your vet do it, but puppy needs to be taught this is going to happen no matter what. 

 Baths frequently with soap are not necessary, and frankly not good for their skin.  They need the oils in their skin for protection that shampoo removes.  If their feet or face get dirty, rinsing them in plain tap water can be done as often as you like. I only use shampoo when they have something on them that wont come off with plain water, or if they smell bad. I dont like sleeping with a smelly dog. I use body sprays, Baby shampoo, q-tips and ear cleanser products from the dollar store, ear powder, and a brush and comb.  The nail trimmer I use are the small blunt scissor type made for cats, I included one in your puppy pack.  Teaching your puppy to behave on a table is always a good idea.  It will help the groomer do a good and safe job if your puppy is well behaved.  And everyone loves a well behaved puppy.

 < TIPS >  Dont let your puppy bite or scream at you.  Just like a child, they need to be taught to behave, you are the boss and arent going to stop until the process is finished.  If they move about, all you have to do is hold them firmly and quietly so they cannot move until they give in and relax.  Use a muzzle if needed, eventually they will get the idea that you are the boss, and the grooming is going to happen.  Or if on a table let them dance about and act bad for a moment until they realize you arent going to go anywhere until the process is finished.  Not doing this will be letting your puppy think he is the boss It will also make the groomers visit much more enjoyable for everyone. 

   Trimming your dog yourself it is easy to do, it takes some practice and confidence.  Just be patient, the first few trims may not go as well as youd like.  But with a little practice you will gain confidence and can do as good of a job as anyone.  I use a dual speed Andis brand clipper with a #10 detachable blade. Or a Wahl Bravura cordless with multi blade.  I may need to trim a little more often if not cutting too close to the skin, but rarely nick my dog with that blade length.  Always try to trim in the direction the hair grows, and you will never nick or chaff your dog.  Follow the outline the breeder trimmed to get started and modify the cut to suit you.  Most puppies require very little grooming in the beginning.  Remember you dont have to finish everything in one sitting.  Low calming talk will keep them focused and content while you work.   I just work on one gently until they get fidgety and tired of sitting.  Then I give them a treat and say good baby.  We both happily go on to groom another day.  Always leave the grooming table on a happy note.

   Importance of Vet Care and Vaccinations
 One of the most important things you can do for your puppy is to make sure he receives and finishes his series of baby shots.  If you live in a city, he will be exposed to so many puppy diseases while he is growing and has an undeveloped immune system.  These are usually a series of 3-4 puppy shots 3 wks apart, a bordetella vaccination, then his first rabies about 5-6 months of age.  After that a one year rabies booster and final puppy booster.  No need for puppy boosters through adulthood, schnauzers have a high immune system and are typically protected from the puppy diseases.  Rabies is recommended every 3rd years according to manufacturer instructions, not yearly.  After they have developed a healthy immune system, less is more.    Please dont try to save money by avoiding these baby shots, it will cost you and your puppy so much more in the long run.

TO CHIP OR NOT TO CHIP                       

  This piece is in remembrance of Daisy.  Micro chipping your dog is now the new fad. Not necessity, a fad. It is a requirement when you are showing your dog, or selling your puppies to a broker. But in my opinion it serves no other purpose other than to extract more money from the uneducated consumer.  It is not a GPS system that will find your dog, and there is a less than 1% chance that your dog will ever be returned as a result of this chip. It is an ID chip only.  When they claim 80% of all dogs are found because of it,  know that is just a sales remark and nothing else.  Think about it, there is no way they can accurately estimate that number, no one keeps a record or submits information to the chip companies of the dogs that are scanned or recover.  Common sense?

  Shelters try to contact people by them.  But rarely does that information change when a dog changes owners. And never when the dog is lost or dead. We take in rescue dogs and never once have had a vet ask or search for it.  You would be better off with a $5 tag with your name and number on it from Walmart. That way the first person who finds your dog will call you.  The average neighbor doesn't have a chip reader.  It is the best chance you will ever get having your dog returned to you... COMMON SENSE.

 Chipping your dog is taking a chance on their health more than anything. You are inserting a foreign object under their skin in the neck/shoulder near the spine and central nerve system. We had a little rescue dog named Daisy who came to us as a 1 year old kennel dog.(kennel dogs must be chipped). She was the sweetest dog with a lovely personality.  Loved everyone, and was a joy to be around.  She was given to us because she had seizures. After much testing, we found nothing other than the only time she had a seizure was when her microchip was read by the previous owner and by our vet. Eventually she developed cancerous tumors around the chip, which was inserted so dangerously close to her spine it could not be removed. Needless to say that due to the microchip, we lost our little Daisy at 2.5 years of age from progressively uncontrolled seizures. I have heard many similar stories, and will never support the microchip system. When they make it a law that all registered pets need to be chipped, we will not support that ridiculous ploy for money risking the health of our animals. I'd ratherbecome a dog criminal. Check out side effects from the microchip before choosing to do so, dont do it because everyone else does.  When raising animals, less is always more.

Help, Im having trouble potty training!  There are several types of house training techniques to share.  Like children, they are all different, your goal is to find the one that works for your puppy.   The idea is that you are showing them WHEN and WHERE are acceptable for potty areas.  Remember the goal is to help them understand what you want, not to punish.  Use the first technique that feels comfortable to you, if that dosent hit home with your puppy, try another.  Give them time to figure it out before changing techniques, a week sometimes two.  Always offer them an alternative safe place to potty inside the house without being punished, such as pee pad or litter box.  There are bad weather times they do not want to go outside, and I dont blame them.  Be consistent, and patient with each technique and they will get it.

 1} First keep in mind that smaller breeds can not hold it as long as larger breeds.  And puppies cannot hold it as long as an adult.  Also some breeds are just not intelligent enough to communicate with you when they need to go. Some are just stubborn.  But the biggest misconceptions is that the goal is to keep them from using the bathroom until you want them to.   WRONG. You want them to use the bathroom, holding it is just as uncomfortable and unhealthy as it is for you.  Your goal is to communicate WHERE they go, and for you to understand their needs and schedule.  The WHEN part of the routine will change and be developed over time as they mature.  Work with your dog, be patient and kind until he gets it. 

 ** Crate Training...  this method for daytime use should be used on adult dogs only, though I do not use this method.  Crate training for a puppy should be used at nights only, or for small periods of time throughout the day when they cannot be watched.  A better place for your puppy (or adult) during the day is a play or exercise pen with food and water bowls, blanket or bed, toys or mental stimulation such as tv, and paper/pee pads or litter box.  Night time, expect him to cry when he needs to go out to potty.  Welcome to parenthood, get up and take him out to potty and put him back in his crate or pen til morning.  That will only last a few weeks until he is old enough to hold it all night, and until he has learned your daily schedule.

**  Outside is the best place for a dog during the day in fair weather as long as they have plenty of access to shade, shelter, food and water.  Never tie a dog up for the day when you will not be there.  If you have an unsecured fence, using a smaller pen in the shade is best.   Your puppy will pick his favorite spot to potty, usually along the perimeter of the yard.   Your goal is to create mutual communication on when and where.  And to communicate that inside the house is not acceptable. Let your new puppy show you his needs of when and where, then you can modify that little by little.
 ** The Best Puppy Method...  The best method is to spend as much time out side as possible the first few days.  Getting your puppy at a time you will have a couple of days off is a good time to start.  Keep him in a play pen covered with paper/pads, food, toys and blanket during the day and when you cannot watch him.  Take him outside to potty every time you think of it, after they eat or drink, and after waking from a nap and before bedtime.  You both will get the routine very fast.  Then let him mature a little until able to go longer periods between bathroom needs.  Make him earn his freedom from the play pen, do not give him full run of the house.  Do not limit food and water to prevent accidents, this is considered abuse.

** My puppy goes outside to play and potty, and I praise him.  He comes back in and potties on the floor.  You may have praised him for going potty, so he wants to make you happy.  He hasn't yet figured out that you mean only when he goes outside.  So, what we want to do is encourage him by not only praise, but by reprimand.  When he has an accident inside, show it to him, don't be afraid to fuss at him and tell him "No, only potty outside".  Take him outside and leave him for a few more minutes.  Take a piece of paper towel and pick up the poo or sop the pee, take the paper towel or feces and place it outside where you want him to potty, or where he has went before.  Put a small stone over the towel and put his nose near the towel so he can smell his own pee or poo in that location.  Then tell him good boy for potty "outside".  He will come back tomorrow and find the smell of where he went before, and develop a routine.  Just keep him encouraged to find that spot (or any spot he likes) and praise for outside, and reprimand him for inside.
 ** My puppy has a pee pad but he wont use it.  He is a baby animal and his brain is small.  Try leaving him in a small pen and do not give him full reign of the house in the beginning when you cannot watch him.  Like a human child he must earn his freedom.  A puppy always wants to go where he has gone before.  I prime a new pee pad by sopping his pee onto it.  Maybe small piece of paper towel with a blot of urine from the old pad.  If he has chosen a spot on your floor, be sure to put a pee pad their also until he is finished house training.  Better safe than sorry.


 This page is intended to help give you a little insight into some of the daily requirements for schnauzer puppies.  This is really my blog page about my methods, and are my opinions only.

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Make it, freeze it raw in portions...Store in containers in freezer...set out one day portion to thaw...feed raw at room temperature.

** We offer fish for needed omegas, canned Jack Mackerel or tuna patties as a snack is good too.  If a smaller can of another oily fish is better portioning for you, go for it. Maybe give yourself a meal of fish, and share with your dog for one of his snacks or meal.

** Two-Four daily main meals for teens and pregnant/nursing mothers, and of course free feed dry kibble.  Morning or evening, whichever works for your individual schedule.

 ** Veggie snack suggestions... .  The concept is that your dog wont always get a regular scheduled meal in the wild, so you can sometimes shake things up just like you do for your self.  This week special sale is bananas, sweet potatoes, and apple.  Grind in food processor, make a large
batch and freeze in small easily portioned baggies, or in a container that will last in the fridge for a day or two. Offer a dollup in a small
 bowl at opposite end of the day from main meal as a snack. Next week's special is broccoli, zucchini sticks or applesauce or canned pumpkin is also on sale, or vanilla yogurt.  Yogurt is good up to 3-4 weeks in the fridge.  Just be sure to start out adding one new veggie item per month in the beginning so you can tell if your dog's system appreciates it.  
The poo tells you everything.  Small hard and non smelly is a good stool.  If not consistent after about 7 days of adding a new ingredient,
 mark that down as one to avoid for your puppy. But can always be tried again as an adult.  

** Healthy snacks...  Eggs, raw or cooked.  If you have to cook it scramble it lightly.  Milled Flax seed is also beneficial sprinkled or mixed in.  Barley sprinkled in the food is a good way to help your dog gain weight if needed.  But is very fattening for a permanent diet.  Peanut butter cookies without sugar are great treats that last a good while in a canister or freezer. You can also pate` liver and add that to your cookie recipe as an organ treat that will last a while in a canister or in the fridge/freezer.

** Seasonal variances for portioning are that they will to be less hungry when seasonal temperatures or activity levels fluctuate, adjusting portions
for the seasons is perfectly okay.  Summer are less hungry, winter are more hungry.

** And yes, we do feed our dogs leftovers, just not from the table.  They love broccoli rice casserole and left over spaghetti just like I do.  They dont need a huge variety, but you can add different items as you feel your dog can handle as a snack.  Just never offer it near your meal time.

** Suggestion for Raw food source if your wanting to purchase pre-packaged... Natures Variety Instinct Raw recipes are my favorites, available online and at Petco.  This should help you get started...       And then many grocery stores have a freezer in the dog food section, check it out.

 Call me anytime if you have questions, or just want another opinion. I welcome challenging non hateful conversation... 254-383-8346

 1) Primary Meat meals are real muscle meat such as ground chicken, beef, turkey and chicken necks including canned fish, rabbit, venison, goat as available given once or twice a day for maintenance.  I prefer to avoid pork.

 2) "Snack time" offered each day opposite time of day from main meal.  Non fattening and non processed. Every meal dosent have to be right on schedule.  Sometimes I have to be gone all day and they will just have to wait.
Teach your dog to be flexible.

 3) Additional Weekly Requirements may be a variety of other needed meat products... such as fish.  10-20% of their meat portioning should be organ meat such as liver or heart.  Offer at least one meal per week as organ meat if not include in his daily meat loaf.

 4) Dont forget the bone meal in the meatloaf mix.  You can offer a meaty bone from your butcher as a snack.  Or offer chicken necks as part of your main meal, or a weekly treat as they are a great source of easily chewed raw bones.  Cooked bones splinter, raw ones dont normally.  The only dangerous bone is one that small enough to become lodged in the throat.  Use caution when giving certain type bones for that reason. Depending on the size of your dog, a seven bone from your butcher is a good treat.  Ground Bone Meal can be purchased to sprinkle or mix in with his food as desired.

5) Flax seed milled is available at your grocery store near the flour.  It is a very good source of progesterone and all the omegas, just a sprinkle will do it.

DIET ... Ahhh yes ... the ongoing debate.   This ever changing and on going debate makes your head swim.  Here is the truth about proper dog diet, your gonna love this...
   You will find, there is no set in stone diet for all dogs.  Their true basic needs are simple... muscle meat, organ meat and bone meal... thats it! Nothing more is needed and everything else is just tummy filler that they will get little to no dietary benefit.  As with humans all dogs are different and will need modification to any diet you choose.  These are my concepts on diet for my dogs, and of course don't expect it to be the normal things you hear, I am not a politically correct person and believe that the best way to care for any animal is the way that God designed them.   Not the way a dog food manufacturers or vets tell you so you buy their product.   I will leave out the marketing mis-information that most of you hear, and tell it like it is.  In the meantime, here is a good example link for good products...      Brand is not the issue, ingredients are.  As long as your dog likes it, and is healthy eating it.

Part of the problem with commercial dry dog foods is that they aren't the correct diet for your dog causing food allergies, organ failures, and cancers just for starters.  This is no more a benefit to the life of your dog than you eating nothing but one processed dry cracker day in and day out.  Give this a read, and see if it helps give you a start to understanding your dog's dietary needs.  It isn't a hard task, it just takes a little time to understand, but isn't your dog worth that?  It can make the difference of living a happy healthy life, and can add as much as 50% to his life span.   Read below a simple recipe for starting your dog on real, unprocessed food. 



  There are many reasons why a puppy/dog would eat poop, but the real reason is... that is what dogs do.  You can attempt to change the behavior while they are puppies by keeping the waste removed from their play area at all times. Be sure to scold them and let them know that you are not pleased with this action. Or use a product in their food to prevent the desire. An alternative product to the ones sold in stores to prevent eating poop is unflavored meat tenderizer... sprinkled over their food each day as if you were salting your own food.  Much cheaper than the store bought product, and is the same ingredient.  This causes their feces to seem unsavory ( just seems weird to even say doesn't it?)  Some will outgrow this in time, but the real issue is that dogs act like dogs, not humans.  If you plan to live with a dog, expect them to act like dog and accept him for the creature he is.  For dogs, its all about the POOP!   Feel free to call me anytime.  Even if  you didnt adopt a puppy form us, I will be more than happy to be a second opinion or discuss some concerns you may have.  We spend a lot of time outside, so please leave a message and I will call you as soon as possible.  

                                                       We have raised, shown and lived with many species of animals for over 50 years, and have had mini schnauzers since 

                                                      1984.  Perhaps we can share a few things with you that may be of use or interest....

   Caring for a new puppy is not rocket science, and can be easy to understand with just a few tips.  For those of us who have done it forever, it is second nature. With a few suggestions from your breeder to get you started, you will have the confidence to grow your new puppy into a happy healthy dog who will enrich your life beyond your imagination.

 These are suggestions that work in my home, and for schnauzers primarily. Every breeder has their own method, that should tell you that anyone can do it.  Forewarning... I do not practice political correctness.  Instead I use old school methodsof common sense and experience.  I believe that less is more.  So please don't call me if you are offended or disagree.  These are my methods, they have worked for me and my ancestors, though I am always open for new suggestions.
                          >>>  Living with dogs is a very rewarding experience, everyone should have the opportunity to do so.

                          Remember, they are not humans, so don't expect them to act like humans.       Please Be Kind.    <<<

      ***   Most important thing in the beginning for you and your new puppy... Keep a folder ( or baby book) with all the health issues and vaccination records, vet checks, and personal puppy preferences such as favorite toys and diet.  If you have to leave your puppy with someone in haste, it will help them care for him while you are away.

  ​In Beautiful SE Oklahoma

   Ph:   580-271-2110            

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