More on Chipping... Shelters try to contact people by them. But rarely does that information change when a dog changes owners. And never when the dog is lost, dumped, or dead. We take in rescue dogs and never once have had a vet ask or search for it. They say..."dogs change ownership too often to take the information for fact". The average neighbor doesn't have a chip reader. And how long will your dog be gone before someone even thinks to check or look for a microchip?
You would be better off with a collar and $5 tag with your name and number. It is the best chance you will ever get having your dog returned to you. This way the first person who finds your dog will call you... COMMON SENSE.
Chipping your dog is taking a chance on their health more than anything. Health issues the manufacturers do not want you to know. You are inserting a foreign charged object under their skin in the neck/shoulder near the spine and central nerve system. We had a little rescue dog named Daisy who came to us as a 1 year old kennel dog.(kennel dogs must be chipped). She was the sweetest dog with a lovely personality. Loved everyone, and was a joy to be around. She was given to us because she had seizures. After much testing, we found nothing other than the only time she had a seizure was when her microchip was read by the previous owner and by our vet. Eventually she developed cancerous tumors around the chip, which was inserted so dangerously close to her spine/nervous system that it could not be removed. Needless to say that due to the microchip, we lost our little Daisy at 2.5 years of age from progressively uncontrolled seizures. I have heard many similar stories, and will never support the microchip system. And have since learned that they arent as safe as marketed to the general public. When they make it a law that all pets need to be chipped, we will not support that ridiculous ploy for money risking the health of our animals. I'd rather become a dog criminal. Check out side effects from the microchip before choosing to do so, dont do it because everyone else does. Or because your vet says to do it (he makes money from that) When raising animals, less is always more.
In Beautiful SE Oklahoma
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More on Potty Training... First keep in mind that smaller breeds can not hold it as long as larger breeds. And puppies cannot hold it as long as an adult. Also some breeds are just not intelligent enough to communicate with you when they need to go. Some are just stubborn. But the biggest misconceptions is that the goal is to keep them from using the bathroom until you want them to. WRONG. You want them to use the bathroom, holding it is just as uncomfortable and unhealthy for them as it is for you. Your goal is to communicate WHERE they go, and for you to understand their needs and schedule. The WHEN part of the routine will change and be developed over time as they mature. Work with your dog, be patient and kind until he gets it.
** Crate Training... this method for daytime use should be used on adult dogs only, though I do not use this method. Crate training for a puppy should be used at nights only, or for small periods of time throughout the day when they cannot be watched. A better place for your puppy (or new adult) during the day is a play or doggie exercise pen with food and water bowls, blanket or bed, toys or mental stimulation such as tv, and paper/pee pads or litter box. Night time, expect him to cry when he needs to go out to potty. Welcome to parenthood, get up and take him out to potty and put him back in his crate or pen til morning. That will only last a few weeks until he is old enough to hold it all night, and until he has learned your daily schedule, and you his.
** Outside is the best place for a dog during the day in fair weather as long as they have plenty of access to shade, shelter, food and water. Never tie a dog up for the day when you will not be there. If you have an unsecured fence, using a smaller pen in the shade is best. Your puppy will pick his favorite spot to potty, usually along the perimeter of the yard. Your goal is to create mutual communication on when and where. And to communicate that inside the house is not acceptable. Let your new puppy show you his needs of when and where, then you can modify that little by little.
** The Best Puppy Method... The best method is to spend as much time out side as possible the first few days. When away from home, leave your puppy in a confined area with access to pee pads. Take your puppy outside every few hours and as soon as possible after naps, meals or play sessions, to relieve himself. Getting your puppy at a time you will have a couple of days off is a good time to start. Keep him in a play pen covered with paper/pads, food, toys and blanket during the day and when you cannot watch him. Make him earn his freedom from the play pen, do not give him full run of the house. Do not limit food and water to prevent accidents, this is considered abuse. Take him outside to potty... when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, after waking from a nap and before bedtime. You both will get the routine very quickly. Then let him mature a little until able to go longer periods between bathroom needs.
** My puppy goes outside to play and potty, and I praise him. He comes back in and potties on the floor. You may have praised him for going potty, so he wants to make you happy. He hasn't yet figured out that you mean only when he goes outside. So, what we want to do is encourage him by not only praise, but by reprimand. When he has an accident inside, show it to him, don't be afraid to fuss at him and tell him "No potty inside". Perhaps give him a time out in the pen for a few minutes. Or take him outside and leave him for a few more minutes. In the meantime, take a paper towel, pick up the poo or sop the pee. Place the paper towel or feces outside where you want him to potty, or where he has went before. Put a small stone over the towel and put his nose near the towel so he can smell his own pee or poo in that location. Then tell him good boy for potty "outside". He will come back tomorrow and find the smell where he went before, and develop a routine. Just keep him encouraged to find that spot (or any spot he likes) and praise for outside, and reprimand him for inside.
** My puppy has a pee pad but he wont use it. He is a baby animal and his brain is small. Try leaving him in a small pen and do not give him full reign of the house in the beginning when you cannot watch him. Like a human child he must earn his freedom. A puppy always wants to go where he has gone before. I "prime" a new pee pad by sopping his pee onto it. Maybe small piece of paper towel with a blot of urine from the old pad. If he has chosen a spot on your floor, be sure to put a pee pad their also until he is finished house training. Better safe than sorry, and he deserves a free place inside to do his business.