Registration vs Birth Certificate
Did you know that getting a registration paper with your dog does not prove that it is pure bred? Did you know that the registration club only has the information the breeder gives them and nothing more? Did you know that the registration club employees are never in a breeders home when a dog is being bred in order to verify it is of good quality? You have been fooled into thinking a registration paper means something more than a third party record of information. Read the top of your AKC puppy form. It does not say this form represents a pure bred dog of high quality. It merely states it is a registration of who owns the dog, the breeder info, and the parents the breeder claims to be. ** Registration papers do not imply dog quality, nor breeder integrity.
Now, armed with that knowledge... We offer our puppies at a pet fee leaving out the cost of unnecessary registration paper work. With the wonderful world of technology and home computers, pedigree programs and printers, we can now keep the pedigree records ourselves without need for expense of outside companies (registration clubs). You will be offered a birth certificate with every puppy absolutely free. With more information than you will ever find on a registration form, including a photo of your puppy. If you are not showing or breeding your dog, paying to register serves no purpose and is a waste of money. You are free to spend that money on vet care, new baby toys and fun things.
** If you are a breeder and would like registration, we offer APRI registration for an additional fee of $200. You will be given an open puppy paper, along with a 3 generation pedigree. If you would like to use AKC, Submit that puppy paper and pedigree to AKC and they will accept it. Almost all clubs are now interchangeable, so you may submit that form to any club you choose and they will accept it. We no longer use AKC so please don't ask me for it. They are the club with the poorest service, poor work ethics and quality, and a high price to top it off. Not to mention inaccurate pedigree records, making them worthless in my opinion. All our puppies are AKC eligible unless otherwise stated.
If you ever have questions, please feel free to call us anytime from 8am to 8pm cst. We will be more than happy to answer all your questions.
DEPOSIT/Commitment Fee: The commitment fee is a good faith deposit showing our willingness to hold a puppy for you until it is ready to go home at 8 weeks of age. In return, is a good faith intent to purchase on your part when the puppy is 8 weeks of age. It is NOT for you to enjoy shopping with no intent to purchase, that is cruel to the puppy and the breeder. We are not here to entertain you with an emotional joyride, and would appreciate serious inquiries only.
Payment: We accept money orders, cashier's and personal checks by mail, except for final balance that must be here and clear 7 days before shipping to you. For instant payments we accept CASH APP, or bank wire transfers. Cash only for any balance due at pick up, no checks accepted at pick up.
Layaway: is offered on newborn puppies only, with a very easy payment plan. Pick your puppy as a newborn, make payments of your choice amount and your personal schedule until he/she is up to 7 weeks of age. Payment amounts and time schedule is always customized to suit you until your balance is paid. You can even pay your deposit in the first week, and the balance in cash when you pick him up. Please have your balance here and cleared within 7 days of shipping. Cant be easier than that!
REFUNDS: will be made at your request until 6 wks of age. It will be minus any amount spent on the dog/puppy at your request... such as ear crop. Please make sure you are ready to commit to the puppy before you make your deposit.
BOARDING: Boarding charges will be added to your total after 8 weeks of age, or after the agreed upon pick up date at a rate of $10 per day per puppy. This will continue until the puppy is picked up, or readopted if not picked up on scheduled pick up. Boarding charges are non-refundable.
Full Registration: All TIG puppies come with a free Birth Certificate. If you request full registration, there will be an additional $200 registration fee. No exceptions. That will include APRI open registration papers and a 3 generation pedigree. All adults are AKC eligible, if you want AKC let me know and I will make sure you have the necessary paperwork to acquire your full AKC registration.
* Add $385 for average shipping of a puppy anywhere in the US that American Airlines will deliver a puppy.
* 2 puppies can be shipped in the same crate for approx $400 using American. Puppies over 16 weeks of age require a rabies and will ad $25ea.
* We will also drive to meet you within a reasonable distance.
* Hand delivery to your local airport available any where in the US, starting at $600, ask for a quote.
* International delivery starting at $2200, ask for a quote. (At this time we are not offering international shipping... Covid requirements are a bit unreachable)
** Other airlines can be used, if ticket price is higher, shipping charge will reflect that rate. We ship from Dallas TX. Shipping price includes everything needed for travel. There is an extra cost for an adult dog because of a larger crate, necessary rabies vaccination, and ticket price. Ask for an adult shipping quote anytime.
** AND of course we will be happy to meet you at DFW airport to hand you your puppy at the terminal should you wish to fly in and pick him up in person.l
What supplies will my puppy come with?
Each puppy will come with a few things to help you and him get settled, and get through the first few days.
We make every effort to assure that your puppy is groomed, and up to date on his shots and deworming so you will not have to worry about any of that during your puppy's settling in period. We do ask that you have your puppy checked out by your vet during the first week to make sure that everyone is satisfied with the new puppy. And update us within the first few days on his transition or immediately if there are any concerns.
** This process is done regularly and we have found, in our experience, that it helps things go smoothly and makes everyone happy. If there is anything else we can do to make your puppy's new home transition experience more pleasant and stress free, please feel free to ask. We take every effort to make sure that you and your new puppy get off to a great start. But we wont know how to help you if you don't ask.
NOTE:For those of you who categorize someone because they wont allow you into their home...
JUST BECAUSE SOMEONE WILL NOT ALLOW YOU INTO THEIR HOME... DOES NOT MEAN THEY ARE A PUPPY MILL!
It means they do not allow strangers into their home... you are a stranger. We live in a very remote area and it is very dangerous for us to invite strangers to our home, this is not a store, it is our private HOME. We do not know who is trustworthy and who isn't, we don't discriminate, no one is allowed here that we do not know. If you do not agree with this... fate intended for you to purchase a puppy from someone else. The opinions on this page are my opinions only and are merely intended to help you. They are not an invitation for debate.
Choosing your puppy... Which puppy should I choose?
This page is intended to help you find the perfect dog to fit your lifestyle. Bare with me, I will not be politically correct, and will tell you what
I personally think. You are not just choosing a puppy, your choosing a family member, a 12-15 year responsibility just like having a
baby. Lets face it, the dog has been the single most important emotional support any of us will every experience in our lives. My goal is to help
you choose the puppy who best fits your needs and desires. Be honest with me, and I will make sure you are happy with your choice.
Below are a few tips to help prevent any dog being passed from home to home, or ending up in a shelter and put to death.
These are just suggestions, tailor them to fit your situation. Taking the extra time to research breeds and breeders always benefits the puppy,
and your family's emotions. ** Not taking the time to do this is the number one reason why we have animal shelters full of unwanted dogs.
FIRST... Your primary goal is to find the breeder who will happily communicate with you, openly giving you honest answers. Your breeder should want their puppy placed in the right home, as much as you would like one that fits your family and life style. You are first choosing your breeder, and second choosing your puppy. If a breeder will not answer your questions, or are hesitant in answering you, move on. There are so many breeders out there to choose from, you will find your puppy with the one that wants to help you and the one that makes you feel comfortable.
When looking for the perfect pet puppy... The most important thing to remember is USE COMMON SENSE, and watch for RED FLAGS when choosing your breeder. Remember there are no set rules to red flag a breeder. Each red flag is your personal gut feeling only, and are merely your opinions. Some people just don't click. Remember, choosing your breeder benefits your puppy in the future when you need help.
> Remember, anyone can be a good photographer, groomer, photo shop, or liar. ASK QUESTIONS. Don't feel like you should qualify yourself to deserve a puppy... Everyone deserves a puppy, not just breeders! The breeder works for you, and you deserve to get what you pay for. You are one of the most important elements in this event. It is your personal quest for a soul mate.... We will never forget this!
SECOND...Be sure to describe to the breeder what kind of dog you are looking for... don't just choose by the puppy photo! That puppy will grow up and change.
Anyone can find a pretty puppy photo to get your attention. Breeders should be willing to make sure that their puppy is placed in the right home, and will live a long happy life. Don't forget this is also an industry that should follow polite and proper business etiquette. Many breeders forget about the human element and that your happiness is also very important. Anyone lacking in this area will also be lacking in proper animal husbandry procedures. Believe me this will show in the puppies they raise. Like choosing a baby sitter and seeing a filthy home, is this how she will take care of your child? Here are a few question suggestions...
>> A good first question to ask is how long the breeder has been breeding this particular breed. Anything under a few years is not enough experience to give you the best information. Though they may mean well, and have happy healthy dogs, they will most likely still be learning and may be guessing at their answers. I don't know is the best answer you can get from a newbie breeder. Also raising too many breeds prevent any breeder from having the time to pay attention to very important hereditary conditions or individual personality traits. They might be spending more time feeding and cleaning to pay attention to those very important things. Ask me for my opinion anytime, I am always here to help you.
>> Why do you raise this breed, and what are some traits about them that you love, and which do you not? What are the common temperament and personalities traits the parents of this puppy? Is this common for this bred? Are they calm, shy, active, barky, aggressive etc., very important question as well as asking to see the parents at least in photos. Most honest breeders are happy to show off their dogs and describe their personalities. You want to know everything possible, everything is hereditary including personality glitches. And a beautiful dog is not a good pet unless it has a personality you can live with. A breeder who refuses to talk to you about this set of questions should be a red flag.
>> What are some common health problems you have experienced with your line of dogs? What can I do to keep my puppy healthy? Keep in mind, no living creature is perfect so dont expect the breeder to be able to tell the future. But we do offer a 2 year genetic health guarantee just in case.
>> How do you raise your puppies? In home... in kennel... in cages...? All are proper viable puppy raising methods, this will merely help you understand how to acclimate the puppy to your new routine once you get him home. It is not intended to judge the breeder. Please don't ask someone if they are a puppy mill, it is extremely insulting. There is no set definition of the term puppy mill, it is a personal opinion only. I feel that it is a substandard kennel unkept and devoid of good animal husbandry practices. Im sure some people do not do this on purpose, and are probably just uneducated in proper breeding techniques and animal husbandry. We are all in different stages of learning.
>> What are your diet suggestions? The breeders diet should be followed for the first couple of weeks before changing. Changing the food is okay as long as your puppy is healthy. Always purchase a small amount of new food to make sure it works for your puppy's system. Remember that they are still developing and tastes and dietary needs will mature as well.
>> What are your guarantees and payment policies, and can I count on your support in the future should I need advice? Always talk to the breeder, not just email or text or PM. You will be surprised at what an internet conversation doesn't tell you. It is very important to build a relationship with your breeder, they are now your extended family and should be there to support you and your puppy. In turn, treat them with kindness knowing they are trying to help you even if things dont go the way you hope.
>> What will my puppy come with as far as starter items, and paperwork? Starter items... These items will help you get started, but is not expected to support your puppy for more than a few days. It is merely familiar items to help the transition of the puppy from our home to yours. The future life style or needs of your puppy is up to you.
Getting breeder information on their dog's personality traits, common health problems, and care is always important information. Every breed has ups and downs, find one that you can live with. No amount of researching will predict the future for you or for your breeder. Researching via books and internet is fine taken with a grain of salt. Remember not everyone who writes a book/article has actually had the experience they are writing about. Researching more than one article will confirm other opinions, but not everyone's opinion is the truth, and can still be incorrect information. Try to get breeder opinions, they will usually be more accurate than anyone else, even your vet. My experiences will always be different than another breeder's experiences. In turn, my opinions will be different as well. Keep a folder with all the health issues, vet checks, and personal puppy preferences. If you have to leave your puppy with someone in haste, that will help them care for him while you are away.
Also, know that many vets do not raise animals, and don't always have a true understanding of the daily necessities, or common breed/daily requirements. Their job is merely to assist you in the medical needs of your pet. Political correctness isn't always correct. Point is...use common sense when verifying your sources, your breeder should always be your primary source, find one you trust and take their advice.
** Toys In The Garden **
Welcome to the Wonderful World of Miniature Everything!
Toy & Teacup Schnauzers * Miniature Horses * Miniature Cattle * Dwarf Rabbits
DID YOU KNOW... We do the best we can to make sure that you are adopting exactly the kind of puppy you are looking for. With the information you give us, we evaluate the closest options and through communication guide you to make the best decision. But please understand that we aren't vets or fortune tellers, we cannot predict the future nor guarantee anything that can happen in the future. We can only give you our best predictions possible from experience, then offer a lifetime of support for you and your puppy.
*Estimate size, coat quality, body type, show quality, and breeding quality of each puppy is a matter of opinion and is not guaranteed. ** We raise schnauzers as pets and for our pleasure only, nothing more is ever implied. Everything written on this page is from my experience and my opinions solely. They are intended to help you, not an opening for debate.
What to expect when shipping your puppy
First, know that the airlines do make every effort for your puppy to arrive safe and sound. It is as safe to travel for them as it is for you. Otherwise they will not be in business long. The puppies are not shoved under the plane with the luggage in a cold dark hold. They are kept in a specialized Cargo compartment used only for animals that is pressurized and temperature control just like the passenger cabin. And only the larger planes have that capability, so not all airports receive puppies on the smaller jets.
When your puppy arrives... He will be at the airport when the flight lands, in an airline approved crate that you keep. He will have a food and water dish attached to the door. His food will be on top of the crate, as well as his starter items and paperwork. So do not discard anything attached. All of his things will be inside or taped on top of the crate. If you arent able to find something, please ask. If it dosent arrive with the puppy, I have copies of everything and can resend anything to you via mail or email.
** Check your puppy before leaving the airline. Make sure he is up and alert. Take him out and inspect him, he should be very happy to see you. Probably nervous, and that is normal.
** He may be a little road sick or travel weary so puppy food isnt necessary until you get home. Otherwise offer him food and water as soon as you get home. Your puppy will need to pop his ears just like you would after a flight. Vanilla yogurt, apple sauce, canned pumpkin, vienna sausages or a ripe banana will be a good first food item after getting home. Also offer him a drink of water with a spoonful of apple cider vinegar, green tea or gatorade. Water is most important, please bring a purified or distilled bottle of water to offer him. Not your tap water in the beginning.
** Your puppy may not have been able to hold going to the bathroom during the flight. Or could have gotten motion sick. Bring an old towel or blanket so you can clean him up and wrap him warmly. If he hasnt soiled the crate, take him out for a potty break. A piece of newspaper or pee pad in the airport bathroom floor will work fine, or pee pad on the floor of your car. Take him outside the airport to a nice grassy area that you can tell hasnt been soiled by other dogs. ** Do not take him to a gas station or common dog potty area. That is where most diseases will be picked up. Find a church or industrial area away from high traffic areas. And if close to home, wait to go there.
** Last but not least, please call us to let us know that you have him safely in your possession. We will be eagerly waiting to hear from you.
More on Chipping... Shelters try to contact people by them. But rarely does that information change when a dog changes owners. And never when the dog is lost, dumped, or dead. We take in rescue dogs and never once have had a vet ask or search for it. They say..."dogs change ownership too often to take the information for fact". The average neighbor doesn't have a chip reader. And how long will your dog be gone before someone even thinks to check or look for a microchip?
You would be better off with a collar and $5 tag with your name and number. It is the best chance you will ever get having your dog returned to you. This way the first person who finds your dog will call you... COMMON SENSE.
Chipping your dog is taking a chance on their health more than anything. Health issues the manufacturers do not want you to know. You are inserting a foreign charged object under their skin in the neck/shoulder near the spine and central nerve system. We had a little rescue dog named Daisy who came to us as a 1 year old kennel dog.(kennel dogs must be chipped). She was the sweetest dog with a lovely personality. Loved everyone, and was a joy to be around. She was given to us because she had seizures. After much testing, we found nothing other than the only time she had a seizure was when her microchip was read by the previous owner and by our vet. Eventually she developed cancerous tumors around the chip, which was inserted so dangerously close to her spine/nervous system that it could not be removed. Needless to say that due to the microchip, we lost our little Daisy at 2.5 years of age from progressively uncontrolled seizures. I have heard many similar stories, and will never support the microchip system. And have since learned that they arent as safe as marketed to the general public. When they make it a law that all pets need to be chipped, we will not support that ridiculous ploy for money risking the health of our animals. I'd rather become a dog criminal. Check out side effects from the microchip before choosing to do so, dont do it because everyone else does. Or because your vet says to do it (he makes money from that) When raising animals, less is always more.
More on Potty Training... First keep in mind that smaller breeds can not hold it as long as larger breeds. And puppies cannot hold it as long as an adult. Also some breeds are just not intelligent enough to communicate with you when they need to go. Some are just stubborn. But the biggest misconceptions is that the goal is to keep them from using the bathroom until you want them to. WRONG. You want them to use the bathroom, holding it is just as uncomfortable and unhealthy for them as it is for you. Your goal is to communicate WHERE they go, and for you to understand their needs and schedule. The WHEN part of the routine will change and be developed over time as they mature. Work with your dog, be patient and kind until he gets it.
** Crate Training... this method for daytime use should be used on adult dogs only, though I do not use this method. Crate training for a puppy should be used at nights only, or for small periods of time throughout the day when they cannot be watched. A better place for your puppy (or new adult) during the day is a play or doggie exercise pen with food and water bowls, blanket or bed, toys or mental stimulation such as tv, and paper/pee pads or litter box. Night time, expect him to cry when he needs to go out to potty. Welcome to parenthood, get up and take him out to potty and put him back in his crate or pen til morning. That will only last a few weeks until he is old enough to hold it all night, and until he has learned your daily schedule, and you his.
** Outside is the best place for a dog during the day in fair weather as long as they have plenty of access to shade, shelter, food and water. Never tie a dog up for the day when you will not be there. If you have an unsecured fence, using a smaller pen in the shade is best. Your puppy will pick his favorite spot to potty, usually along the perimeter of the yard. Your goal is to create mutual communication on when and where. And to communicate that inside the house is not acceptable. Let your new puppy show you his needs of when and where, then you can modify that little by little.
** The Best Puppy Method... The best method is to spend as much time out side as possible the first few days. When away from home, leave your puppy in a confined area with access to pee pads. Take your puppy outside every few hours and as soon as possible after naps, meals or play sessions, to relieve himself. Getting your puppy at a time you will have a couple of days off is a good time to start. Keep him in a play pen covered with paper/pads, food, toys and blanket during the day and when you cannot watch him. Make him earn his freedom from the play pen, do not give him full run of the house. Do not limit food and water to prevent accidents, this is considered abuse. Take him outside to potty... when they first wake up, after they eat or drink, after waking from a nap and before bedtime. You both will get the routine very quickly. Then let him mature a little until able to go longer periods between bathroom needs.
** My puppy goes outside to play and potty, and I praise him. He comes back in and potties on the floor. You may have praised him for going potty, so he wants to make you happy. He hasn't yet figured out that you mean only when he goes outside. So, what we want to do is encourage him by not only praise, but by reprimand. When he has an accident inside, show it to him, don't be afraid to fuss at him and tell him "No potty inside". Perhaps give him a time out in the pen for a few minutes. Or take him outside and leave him for a few more minutes. In the meantime, take a paper towel, pick up the poo or sop the pee. Place the paper towel or feces outside where you want him to potty, or where he has went before. Put a small stone over the towel and put his nose near the towel so he can smell his own pee or poo in that location. Then tell him good boy for potty "outside". He will come back tomorrow and find the smell where he went before, and develop a routine. Just keep him encouraged to find that spot (or any spot he likes) and praise for outside, and reprimand him for inside.
** My puppy has a pee pad but he wont use it. He is a baby animal and his brain is small. Try leaving him in a small pen and do not give him full reign of the house in the beginning when you cannot watch him. Like a human child he must earn his freedom. A puppy always wants to go where he has gone before. I "prime" a new pee pad by sopping his pee onto it. Maybe small piece of paper towel with a blot of urine from the old pad. If he has chosen a spot on your floor, be sure to put a pee pad their also until he is finished house training. Better safe than sorry, and he deserves a free place inside to do his business.