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(Tara says... What the heck is that? It definatley isnt a Schnauzer.) Which puppy should I choose? I have added this page intended to help the person looking for that perfect dog to fit their lifestyle, in an effort to help keep even one unwanted dog from going to the wrong home. And ultimately being passed around until they find the right one, or end up in a shelter and put to death. Please take these suggestions just as suggestions, and taylor them to fit your situation. If you have any helpful questions or comments, adding them here to help others. Your suggestions and comments are always welcome. If you are not a breeder, and are looking for the perfect pet puppy to fit your family, there are so many breeds to choose from that it makes your head swim. The most important thing to remember is USE COMMON SENSE. Most people just pick the breed on how the puppy looks. But there are so many other things that you need to know that are worth your time and effort. You will be responsible for that puppy's care and well being for as much as 10-15 years. Taking the extra time to research your breed choice definately benefits the puppy, and your family's emotions. ** Not taking the time to do this is the number one reason why we have animal shelters full of unwanted dogs! Researching each breed size, temperment, breed characteristics, and care requirements are soooo important! Just as important is getting to know your breeder. Take the extra time to narrow down the choices you have chosen initially by aesthetics. Find a few breeder atricles on their traits, common problems and care. More than one article will confirm anothers opinion. Do your homework. But remember, not everyone's opinion is the truth, only opinion. So use common sense when evaluating the information you have read in a book for example. Not everyone who writes a book has actually had the experience they are writting about. Use common sense. Then once you have narrowed your search and chosen your breed, ask breeders questions about their particular line of dogs. Most breeders who have spent many years with a particular breed can tell you just about anything you can imagine, and many things you couldnt. Most breeders are eager to place their puppies in just the right home. Some are just out to make a buck. If you find one that isnt willing to take the time to help you choose the right puppy for your family, or answer a wealth of questions, there are always other breeders who will. A good question to ask is how long the breeder has been breeding this particular breed. Anything under a couple of years is not going to be enough experience to give you the best opinion information you are looking for. Though they may mean well, they will be most likely guessing. The opinions on this page are solely my opinions and are not etched in stone. It is only an effort to help answer many questions I recieve daily.
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I have learned that unfortunately we cannot trust everyone. But you can make a very good decision by asking just a few questions. These are some suggestions, but you can come up with your own. The goal is to find a breeder that will happily communicate with you, and hopefully give you honest answers. Breeder Question Suggestions * Why do you raise this breed of dog? * How long have you raised them, and how many dogs do you have? * What are some of the traits about them that you love, and which do you not? * What are the common temperment and personalities traits of this breed? Calm, shy, over active, agressive etc. ** What are the grooming requirements, does this breed shed? * How do you raise your dogs? In home... in kennel... in cages...? What are some common problems with this breed? * What can I do to keep that from happening? * What is the average life span of this breed? What are the common vet services necessary for this breed to stay healthy? * What are the diet suggestions? * What are some things to avoid, such as foods, or activities etc.? *** What are the excersize requirements? (Very important question...is this breed a high energy dog that requires lots of excersize, or is it bred to be a quiet natured lapdog requiring very little excersize. Think about how much time you or your family members can devote to this animal each day.) * What are some of the common problems that I can watch for in the future? (Dosent mean your puppy will develop any problem at all, all breeds have health problems that are common to that breed, just find one you can live with should it arise.) * What are your guarantees and payment policies, and can I count on your support in the future should I need advice? ** What will my puppy come with when I purchase it? * And be sure to inform the breeder of what you are looking for in a dog, and what your family situation is. They are usually very willing to make sure that their puppy is placed in the right home, and live a long happy life. more suggestions to come as I think of them (C:
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Do I want a Boy or a Girl? This is the ultimate question. And again USE COMMON SENSE. There are so many different answers to this questions that there may not be enough room to tell them all. The reason is that each breed has a different answer and reason. And it depends on what you are looking for in a pet. Some prefer girls becasue they dont like that a male hikes his leg. But girls mark their territory also. Just looks different. Describe to the breeder of your breed interest what you are looking for. Let them guide you to a good descision. And to ask a second opinion is always a good idea. Some things to consider... In my schnauzer pod I find that the males make the best pets for active families with children. And they are very well suited to a single family or elderly home as well. They are more devoted, absorb a lot of loud activities, and are very eager to please (just like human men should be, right?); they have a little more energy and can focus on playtime and training time if neutered. Some tend to be less active when neutered, so encourage regular exersize periods. Breeding purposes and sex drive are the only purpose for un-neutered males. House training is just the same with males as it is for females. It is all just a matter of letting them know where it is acceptable to potty. But that is another topic. Females are sweet and playful as puppies but tend to become couch potatos after a few years if neutered and not kept active. They have more the tendancy for an alpha personality, and usually seem to be a little more stubborn and usually have their own agenda. They dont have as much of a sense of humor as a male, but will be just as sweet to their human family. Their job is to raise and protect their babies, so they will prefer to keep things in routine order and are a little bossy. But that is also part of their charm, and they will protect what is theirs to the death. Schnauzers are very intellegent and learn easily, often times without any coaching and just by observing and figuring things out on their own. One of the things we love about them, self training and morphing into any family life style. Ask a couple of breeders about what gender would be more likely to suit your lifestyle. Second opinions are always good.
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Health and Grooming Issues There are as many breeds of dogs and mixes of dogs as there are things that can go wrong. Just becasue there is a common problem with a partiuclar breed, does not mean that your dog will develope that problem. And often times the common problems stem from people who arent familiar with the breed and arent doing something they should. RESEARCH YOUR BREED. For example Schnauzers have a tendancy for ear infections. That is from not paying attention to the hair removal issue. I clean ears at least once a month and have no problems. Dachshunds have a tendancy for back problems. Can you imagine why? It is often from incorrectly picking up your puppy, and allowing it to jump from high places. They have a different balance and that should be paid attention to. USE COMMON SENSE. Any question suggestions are always welcome. This is an effort to help you learn to research your breed and be happy with the animal you choose to share with your heart and family. Accidents and happenstance can never be avoided, but the time you take to know your pet will benefit everyone. * Breeders need to know what issues are out there with their dog lines. When you have purchased your puppy, please think to give updates on how your dog is doing at least once a year. This will keep them informed and able to learn more about their line of dogs. Most breeders are in tuned with just about every aspect of their dogs and need to know if a breeding needs not to be repeated. And they need to know which ones do. It helps them make a better dog for the future by watching for problems and good qualities now. Schanuzer Grooming requirements are they need their ears cleaned on a regular basis(at least checked once a month), and their hair brushed at least once a week depending on their coat type. If they get dirty with something that cant be brushed out, a mild shampooing only if necessary. Straight water is best inbetween grooming sessions as frequent shampooing will dry out the skin and coat. Trimming their hair is always at your preference, and your style. Anything is acceptable, just ask your groomer not to use a blade shorter than a #10 so as not to nick the hyde or razor burn their skin. They do not shed and their skin is sensitive and a little hair is required to protect their skin from the sun and debre. If the hair gets something on it, it can be brushed, washed or shaved easily. Nails grow at different rates, but dont necessarily need to be cut short. Just keep the tips dull so it is comfortbale for you, and wont snag.
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A little bit about my favorite breed... Schnauzers!! Schnauzers were bred for companion and ratters. They were kept in homes as an alarm to intruders, and to keep the mice and pests away from their food stash. With that in mind, common sense will tell you what their tendancies would be. They are not bred for fighting or protection, and were not bred to be a lap dog only. They are very hardy, energetic and intellegent small dogs and you will get a lot of bang for your buck with them. They will bark, that is what they are supposed to do to alarm. But not to attach. Some bark a little more than they should, and may require training or debarking to aleviate that. And no, dbarking dosent mean they cant bark. It is a snip in the voice box, similar to having your tonsils removed and only reduces the level of sound that comes out. Not to worry though, most only bark when provoked, or when something changes in their little world. Most lose interest in just moments after watching you show no reaction to danger or concern. Most schnauzers are mild tempered, they are intended to bond with humans and are very eager to do so. They are very intellegent, and learn quickly just by watching their human's daily routines. They need very little repremanding and with a little scocializing as a puppy, they can be the most versitle dog I have ever known. They Love to take naps, and are not a hyper dog! They need some excersize to stay fit, and to keep their mind busy. Did I mention they are intellegent and learn on their own? An intellegent dog needs a little mental stimulation. So plan to incorperate that in your dog's day if you are choosing this breed. Any dog left in a crate for more than 50% of a day (24 hr period) will not develope correctly mentally and will not be happy. Males and females make great pets, females tend to a little more of the alpha personality, males more playful and subordinate. Both sexes are very sweet and love to travel. Most people have a breeding goal they try to achieve with their line of dogs. We try to stay as close to the breed standard as far as type. Small, stout, hardy and stocky. They are not a frail breed of dog and should appear athletic. Our vairation on this breed is the small stature, and the softer coat. We consider the toy anything 12" at the shoulders, 8-10 lbs. The teacup should be under 10", and 7 lbs and under. We do not attempt a small frail light boned 2 lb dog. Nor do we attempt to achieve this goal by using other breeds. We use only selective breeding techniques of schanuzer to schnauzer to achieve our goal. The perfect toy size in our opinion for the bone density and muscle mass in this breed is 10" at the shoulders, and around 8 lbs. Check out the puppy care page for more suggestions
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To Chip or Not to Chip Micro chipping your dog is now the new fad. It is a requirement when you are showing your dog. But in my opinion it serves no other purpose other than to extract more money for nothing from the uneducated consumer. It is not a GPS system that will find your dog, and there is a less than 1% chance that your dog will ever be found as a result of this chip. There are so many types of chips out there that a vet would have to have just the right one, would have to suspect fowl play and then would have to actually find the chip. Not gonna happen. You would be better off with a $3.95 tag with your name on it from Walmart. It is the highest chance you will ever get in having your dog returned to you. Dont needlessly spend money that isnt necessary... USE COMMON SENSE! Chipping your dog is taking a chance on their health as well. I dont know about anyone else, but I can tell you about my experience. I had a little dog named Daisy who came to me as a 1 year old kennel dog. She was the sweetest dog, with a lovely personality. Loved everyone, and was a joy to have. She was given to us because she had seizures. Come to find out, the only time she had a seizure in the beginning was when her microchip was read. Then she developed cancerous tumors around the injected item, which was inserted dangerously close to her spine. So it could not be removed. Needless to say that due to the microchip, I lost my little daisy at less than 3 years of age. I have heard many similar stories, and will never support the microchip system ever. When they make it a law that all registered pets need to be chipped, I will start giving only a pedigree and will not support that ridiculous ploy for money. And it is the ONLY reason I do not show my dogs, because it is a requirement. When they offer the option of a tattoo, I will be there!! ** Remember, just because an organization has good advertising skills and funds, dosent make them the best group to follow. Be informed and listen to more than one side before you decide who you will follow. A link that animal haters dont want you to visit... www.petakillsanimals.com and http://humanewatch.org/
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Which Registration club should I choose?? Who Cares!! Im not sure how this got started, but for some reason this seems to be an important issue to some breeders. Personally I prefer to raise quality puppies, rather than paperwork. A registration club's only purpose is to perform the service of keeping a record of my pedigree, and send me a copy of it when I request it in the form of a litter registration. Nothing more. Their purpose is not to tell me how to raise my puppies, they are not at anyone's home choosing the adults that are mated together. Their pedigree isnt any different than any other club pedigree. It is solely a piece of paper with third party proof that the pedigree actually exhists, nothing more. Dont follow what everyone else does, it dosent make it right. Just like your mother said... if everyone jumped off that cliff, would you do it too? USE COMMON SENSE! I choose the registration company that has the most accurate service and prices, the friendliest employees and speedy service. Nothing more is needed, ever. I love that some clubs offer activities for youth and for people to get involved with their dogs. But that is the choice of the indiviual, and has nothing to do with the pedigree service. Some clubs also have rules and regulations that encourage falsifying records to benefit the paperwork. Those rules are really not necessary unless you are showing your dogs. Not to mention that most of the rules and regulations are not complete enough to guarantee you any more acurate information than any other club. I try to avoid them as much as possible, they are only a money suck, and in the end cost the puppy buyer more money for nothing. You will notice that the paperwork option on your puppy only makes a difference in price, nothing more. A registration club has nothing to do with Dog Quality, nor Breeder Integrity. So when you are looking for a puppy to fulfill a space in your family, consider what you are looking for, and dont be quite so rigid about the paperwork. There are so many other things that should be considered when purchsing your puppy. And with some clubs, you will only pay more money for nothing more than the priveledge of thier club service. Who cares! The club I use more frequently is APRI, they are my favorite and most litters will be registered with them. If you want to pay way more for AKC, they will be happy to take your money. Did I mention a registration club has nothing to do with Dog Quality, nor Breeder Integrity? It does not guarantee you a better dog. USE COMMON SENSE
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I have trouble understanding the house training process! There are several types of house training techniques. I like all of them. Different techniques are more effectively used with different ages and breed types, and the method that your breeder uses, but all are effective. The reason is that each dog is a little different in how they respond to each of those techniques. Some smaller breeds can not hold it as long as larger breeds. And puppies cannot hold it as long as an adults. Some breeds are just not intellegent enough to communicate with you on when they need to go. But one of the biggest misconceptions is that the goal is to keep them from using the bathroom in the house. WRONG! You want them to use the bathroom, that means they are healthy. What you need to make sure that you are communicating is that WHERE they go is the important part. With that said... You can use the one you like best, then if that dosent hit home with your puppy, try another. Give them a safe place to go to the bathroom inside the house without being punished. There are bad weather times they do not want to go outside, and I dont blame them! Be consistant and they will get it. The best method is to spend as much time with them as possible the first few days. Getting your puppy on Friday afternoon is a good time to start. Take them outside to potty every time you think of it, when they eat or drink, and after waking from a nap. They will get the routine very fast. Only thing they will need to do is mature a little until they are able to go longer periods between bathroom needs. I always put paper, or pee pads in the puppy box when they are about 3-4 weeks old. That way they are used to using it and will be familiar if the new family wants to use it when they wean. I also use the crate method starting about 6-8 weeks of age, and like it the best with weaned puppies at 8 weeks and older. Crate her at night until she is old enough to hold it all night and sleep on the bed with you. Otherwise you will be changing the linens each morning. For some it is 3 months of age, some it is 6 months. And for some, it is only 2-3 days. Be sure to put in the crate half in a pillow, and half in paper should they not cry to be let out. If they have to go, because they might at first, it will be on the paper that you can easily change out in the morning. No food in the crate! Once you give your puppy a day or two to get the hang of going out the same door to pee, and that its okay to go on the on the paper, she will get it. You want them to hold it all night, or cry to let you know they need out of the crate to pee. I have doggie doors, and have the good fortune for my puppies to watch momma go out the doggie door during the day. Makes them very curious and they learn by following her. So for me, I have the ability to just let them learn from watching the adults. If you dont have but the one puppy, you dont have that option. Just push your baby through the doggie door in and out until they get it. You may need to have a play area full of paper while you work during the day. Once mine are adults and the weather is bad, I still give them a safe place that is acceptable to me. I keep paper or pee pads in my bathroom or laundry room. So if anyone has to go and it is cold outside, or dark outside (we have coyotes and bobcats and I dont like them out after dark in the winter) they have my permission to go on the paper in the back room. Just part of having a house full of dogs. Ask me when you are ready to take your puppy home what schedule your puppy is on. I will be so happy to tell you where he is in his training to make it easy for you to pick up where we leave off.
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Check out the Puppy Care information, and other information page links at the bottom of this page...
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What is a toy, what is a teacup?? In every breed, the sizes are termed in different ways. Schnuauzers are no different. They are only registered as a miniature schnauzer, but there are now different sizes of minis due to popular demand. Each breeder has his/her own interpretation of what is toy, and what is teacup. Im going to tell you what I feel each term means with my dogs. In the photo above, those two puppies were born on the same day. One is a toy, the other is a teacup. First, Id like to say that mini schnauzers are supposed to be stocky athletic dogs. Not petite or frail, but with good mustle mass and bone density. They were bred for a job, not a lap dog. They are heavy boned for small dogs and weigh much more than their size looks like they would. In saying that, we try to keep that standard of a stout bone structure in a smaller size. Some breeders mix other smaller breeds to achieve their goal in size, we do not. That is an accepted way to alter or achieve the end results, but you lose a lot of the integrity of the main breed you are trying to alter. We use the selective breeding method, and do not mix breeds to achieve any end results with our schnauzers. Any mixes we have are purely for fun or curiosity and we will never sell a mix as a purebred. The standard size for a miniature schnauzer is 12"-14" at the shoulders. There is no weight requirement other than the dog should be proprtionate and square in body type. Our idea of a toy is... anthing under 12" at the shoulders. We strive for a toy at 9" to 11" at the shoulders, and 7-10 lbs. We consider anything under 9", and under 7 lbs is a teacup. We try not to have frail and small boned teacups. They are strong, thick and healthy like schnauzers are supposed to be. Very stout and very small but they should not weigh as little as a teacup yorkie. And there is NO WEIGHT CHART FOR BABIES! Please do not ask me to give you a weight on a 3 week old puppy and expect that weight to detwemine the size it will be at maturity. That just does not happen, though it was a nice marketing idea. That only incourages breeders to limit food intake for their puppies and that is wrong. We also try to keep the body square, and the head correct. I like a shorter nose on my toys, but do not like a buggy eyed, tiny faced dog. I like the face to look like a real schnauzer, not a teacup chihuahua or yorkie with no face and big buggy eyes. So with that said we will go more by the height of the puppy thann the weight. Weight is relative to the bone density of each puppy and can not be charted the same forevery puppy. Any questions about our breeding program, please call us. I really want you to know just what you are getting. And if you know what I am working on with my dogs, you will know if we are the breeder you are looking for. I dont always get what I am working for, but I will always tell you what I think of a particular puppy. 580-587-2412.
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Did You Know..... We love every one of our dogs!! Selling our dogs is not our goal. We breed every pair hoping there will be the perfect puppy in that litter that we can keep. We just cant keep them all. So when you wonder how we price our dogs....it is the amount of money it will take for us to let it go.
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For Puppy Care suggestions, click the page link below...
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